
How to Clean Curtains – Experts Advice
To clean curtains, check the care label first, then match the method to the fabric: vacuum weekly, machine wash unlined polyester on a cold gentle cycle, hand wash sheers, and dry clean anything lined or delicate. Always air dry in the shade.
That’s the short version. The longer version is where curtains actually get saved or ruined, because the single biggest mistake we see in our Melbourne workroom is people treating every curtain the same. A polyester sheer and a lined blockout drape need completely different care. Get it wrong and you’re looking at shrinkage, puckered hems or a delaminated lining that no amount of ironing will fix.
This guide covers how to clean curtains of every type, step by step, plus the things the care label won’t tell you: how to deal with mould after a damp winter, how often to clean, and when it’s genuinely worth paying a professional.
Key takeaways
- Check the care label before anything it overrides every tip in this guide.
- Vacuum curtains fortnightly with a soft brush attachment; it prevents 90% of deep-cleaning jobs.
- Machine wash only unlined polyester or cotton curtains: cold water, gentle cycle, hooks removed.
- Hand wash sheer curtains in lukewarm water with mild detergent never wring them.
- Dry clean lined, blockout, pinch-pleat, silk, velvet, linen and wool curtains.
- The air is dry in the shade only. Dryers and direct Australian sun are the two fastest ways to destroy curtain fabric.
- Deep clean every 6–12 months; more often with pets, allergies or a smoker in the house.
What is the best way to clean curtains?
The best way to clean curtains depends on the fabric and lining. Machine wash unlined polyester or cotton on a cold gentle cycle, hand wash sheers, and dry clean anything lined, pleated, or made from silk, linen, velvet or wool.

Use this chart to find your method in ten seconds:
| Curtain type | Best cleaning method | Never do this |
| Polyester sheers | Hand wash or gentle machine wash in a mesh bag, cold water | Hot water, dryer, wringing |
| Unlined cotton or poly-cotton | Machine wash, gentle cycle, cold | Hot wash (shrinks up to 5%) |
| Linen curtains | Hand wash or dry clean | Machine spin, direct sun drying |
| Blockout / lined curtains | Dry clean, or spot clean + steam | Machine washing (delaminates the lining) |
| Velvet, silk, wool | Dry clean only | Any water-based washing |
| S-fold, wave fold & pinch-pleat | Dry clean or professional on-site clean | Removing pleating hooks yourself if unsure |
If your curtains came from a custom maker, they’ll usually tell you the fabric composition and keep that info, and if you’re choosing new fabric, our curtain fabrics page explains how each type behaves. If you’re not sure what your existing curtains are made of, treat them as delicate and hand wash or dry clean. A $30 dry-cleaning bill is always cheaper than replacing a full drop of custom curtains.
Check the care label and prepare your curtains
Every cleaning job starts the same way, and skipping this step is where most curtain disasters begin. Care labelling isn’t optional marketing, either, it’s legally required on textiles and furnishings sold in Australia under the Consumer Goods (Care Labelling) Information Standard 2023, so the instructions on that little tag are the manufacturer’s tested advice, not a suggestion.
- Find the care label: it’s usually sewn into a side seam or the hem. A crossed-out washtub means dry clean with only no exceptions.
- Remove all hardware: hooks, rings, weights and wands rust in the wash and tear delicate fabric in the machine.
- Photograph the pleats: a quick photo of the heading arrangement before unhooking makes rehanging far easier, especially for s-fold and pinch-pleat styles.
- Shake them outside: a firm shake dislodges loose surface dust before it turns to mud in the wash.
- Spot test: dab your detergent solution on a hidden corner, press a white paper towel against it, and check for colour transfer. If dye lifts, stop and go the professional route.
How to clean curtains without taking them down
Most of the time, your curtains don’t need a full wash; they need regular light maintenance while they hang. This is also the safest way to clean curtains that are delicate or custom-made.

Vacuum them
Fit the soft brush attachment, set suction to low, hold the bottom of the curtain taut with one hand and run the vacuum from top to bottom. For sheers, keep the suction gentle full power can pull the fabric into the head and shred it. Fortnightly vacuuming is the single most effective curtain-care habit; dust that sits in fabric acts like fine sandpaper every time the curtain moves.
Steam them
A handheld garment steamer refreshes blockout and heavier curtains beautifully. Work top to bottom, keep the head 15–20 cm away so the fabric gets warm vapour rather than wet, and use the gentlest setting. Steaming also releases wrinkles and kills most dust mites.
Spot clean spills straight away
Blot never rub with a clean dry cloth first. Then dab with a cloth dipped in cold water and a drop of mild detergent, working from the outside of the stain inward. For marks on sheers, alternating between a damp sponge and a dab of white vinegar lifts most spots without leaving a ring.
Air the room
In Melbourne’s damp months, opening windows regularly stops the musty smell that settles into curtain fabric and it’s your first line of defence against mould.
How to machine wash curtains (step by step)
Machine washing is only for unlined curtains in durable fabrics typically polyester, poly-cotton blends and sturdy cotton. If they’re lined or you’re unsure, skip to the professional section.
- Remove hooks, rings and weights: metal hardware rusts, snags and tears fabric mid-cycle.
- Use a mesh laundry bag for lighter fabrics: it stops the drum’s agitation stretching or snagging the weave.
- Wash one panel at a time: curtains need room to move; overloading causes deep-set wrinkles you’ll fight for hours.
- Select a cold, gentle cycle (30°C maximum): hot water is the number-one cause of curtain shrinkage on a floor-length drop, even a few percent means the curtain no longer reaches the floor.
- Use half your normal detergent dose: curtain fabric holds soap residue, and residue attracts dust faster afterwards.
- Skip or shorten the spin cycle: high-speed spinning sets creases into large panels of fabric.
- Remove immediately after the cycle: curtains left sitting in the drum crease and grow musty within hours.
How to wash sheer curtains by hand
Sheers are the most-loved and most-ruined curtains in Australian homes. Their fine weave makes rooms glow, but it also makes them fragile. Hand washing is the gold standard, and it’s easier than it sounds:

- Fill a tub with lukewarm water and mild detergent: hot water and harsh detergents both weaken and yellow fine weaves.
- Swish gently for a minute or two: scrubbing distorts the weave permanently.
- Soak for about 10 minutes: if the water turns grey, that’s months of airborne dust lifting out completely normal.
- Rinse until no soap remains: leftover detergent stiffens sheers and attracts fresh dust.
- Press water out never wring or twist: then roll the sheers in a large clean towel to absorb the excess.
- Hang to dry in shade: ideally in the same folds they hang in at home.
One habit worth building: wash your sheers before they look dirty. Fine sheer fabric discolours gradually, and by the time yellowing is visible against the window light, it’s often permanent. If your sheers are past saving, it may be time to look at new sheer curtains in Melbourne rather than fighting the fabric.
How to clean blockout and lined curtains
Blockout curtains are where DIY confidence goes to die. The blockout layer is usually an acrylic coating or a separate lining bonded or sewn to the face fabric and machine washing is what destroys it. Water and agitation cause the layers to bubble, stiffen or separate, and once a lining delaminates it cannot be repaired.
Safe options, in order:
- Vacuum both sides with the brush attachment, including the lining side facing the window that’s where condensation grime builds up.
- Steam clean on a low setting, keeping the steamer moving so no area gets saturated.
- Sponge clean stubborn marks: hang the curtain where the back can hang free, and gently wipe with a barely-damp cloth and diluted mild detergent.
- Dry clean for a full refresh tell the cleaner it’s a blockout or lined curtain so they use the right process. This also applies to blackout drapes and sheers with blockout linings.
How to remove mould from curtains
If you’ve come through a Victorian winter, you may have found black or grey spots creeping up the curtain hem or the lining side condensation from cold windows is the usual culprit. Act quickly: Victoria’s Better Health Channel notes that mould grows readily on furnishings like curtains in damp, poorly ventilated rooms, can worsen asthma and allergies, and won’t stay away unless the moisture source is controlled, not just the visible spots cleaned.
- Take the curtain outside and brush off the surface spores with a soft brush. Never brush mould indoors; you’ll spread spores through the room.
- For washable fabrics: soak in cold water with a scoop of oxygen-based bleach (colour-safe, sold as “oxi” boosters) for an hour, then wash as the label allows. White vinegar diluted 1:1 with water also works on light mould dab it on, leave for 10 minutes, rinse.
- For sheers: a gentle hand wash usually lifts light mould spotting; treat remaining marks with the vinegar method.
- For lined and blockout curtains: don’t soak them. Sponge the affected area with the vinegar solution and dry fully, or send them for professional cleaning if the mould covers more than a scattered few spots.
- Fix the cause: wipe window condensation on cold mornings, keep a gap between curtain and glass where possible, and ventilate the health authorities’ cheapest recommended fix is simply opening windows regularly.
Never use chlorine bleach on curtain fabric; it destroys fibres and leaves permanent pale patches, especially on anything coloured.
How to dry curtains properly
Drying is where more curtains are damaged than in washing, and the rules are short:
- Air dry only. Tumble dryers shrink natural fibres, melt blockout coatings and set wrinkles you’ll never steam out.
- Shade, not sun. Australian UV is brutal on fabric direct sun while wet fades dye fast and weakens fibres. Dry on a line under a verandah or in dappled shade.
- Rehang while slightly damp. This is the trick professional installers use: hang curtains at about 90% dry and the weight of the fabric pulls the creases out as they finish drying, so most curtains never need ironing. Keep windows closed while they finish damp fabric grabs airborne dust.
- If ironing is needed, iron on the reverse side while slightly damp, on the setting matching the fabric.
How often should you clean curtains?
Deep clean your curtains every 6 to 12 months, and vacuum them every couple of weeks. Knowing how to clean curtains is half the job, knowing how often is the other half, because over-washing wears fabric out just as surely as neglect.
| Task | Frequency |
| Shake out / quick dust | Weekly |
| Vacuum with brush attachment | Every 2 weeks |
| Spot clean spills | Immediately |
| Steam refresh | Every 2–3 months |
| Deep clean (wash or dry clean) | Every 6–12 months |
Clean more often every 3–6 months if anyone in the house has allergies or asthma, you have pets, someone smokes indoors, you live near the coast (salt air yellows fabric), or the curtains hang in a kitchen. And if you’re renting, cleaning the curtains before your final inspection is one of the cheapest things you can do to protect your bond.
When to call in a professional
Some jobs simply aren’t DIY, and knowing the line saves money in the long run. Go professional when:
- The curtains are lined, interlined or blockout and need more than spot cleaning.
- They’re silk, velvet, wool or linen.
- They have pinch pleats, goblet pleats, or s-fold and wave-fold headings. The structured heading holds its shape through professional cleaning but can collapse in a home wash. (More on these styles on our s-fold and wave fold curtains page.)
- Mould covers a large area.
- The curtains are custom-made and replacing them would cost far more than cleaning them.
In Melbourne, expect professional curtain dry cleaning to run roughly $25–$60 per drop depending on size and fabric, and some services clean curtains on-site without removing them worth it for large or motorised installations. One consumer-protection tip from NSW Fair Trading’s textile care guidance: always clean in accordance with the care label, and if you ask a dry cleaner to process an item against their advice, have it noted on the docket it affects who’s responsible if something goes wrong. Compared with the cost of custom curtains, professional cleaning is cheap insurance.
Keep your curtains beautiful for longer
That’s how to clean curtains without shortening their life: vacuum fortnightly, wash gently and rarely, dry in the shade, and hand anything lined or pleated to a professional. Curtains are one of the biggest fabric investments in a home, and they repay that small routine with years of extra service. If yours are past the point of cleaning faded, shrunken or simply tired our Melbourne team custom-makes curtains and blinds to fit any window, and you can get in touch here for a free measure and quote.
Faq's
Yes, provided they’re unlined, made from durable polyester or cotton, and the care label permits it. Never machine wash lined, blockout, silk, velvet or wool curtains, or anything with rubber-backed coatings or embellishments, which shed in the drum and damage both curtain and machine.
Vacuum them top to bottom with a soft brush attachment, give them a firm shake outdoors, steam them with a handheld garment steamer, and spot clean any marks with a damp cloth and mild detergent. Done fortnightly, this keeps most curtains fresh between annual deep cleans.
Yes. The label usually reflects a lining, bonding, or fibre that water will damage shrinkage, puckering and delaminated blockout coatings are the common results of ignoring it. The exception is light spot cleaning on the surface, which is generally safe if you blot gently and spot test first.
Air the room thoroughly, vacuum the curtains, then steam them, heat and airflow remove most odours. A light mist of half water, half white vinegar helps with stubborn smells (it dries odourless). If mustiness persists, check the lining side for mould, which needs treatment at the source.
Yes, polyester sheers usually can use a mesh laundry bag, a delicate cold cycle, minimal detergent and no spin. Linen or older, fragile sheers should always be hand washed. Either way, never tumble dry sheers, roll them in a towel and hang them in shade.
Work top to bottom with a vacuum brush attachment on low suction, then follow with a handheld steamer held 15–20 cm from the fabric. Spot clean marks by blotting with diluted mild detergent. This on-the-rod routine suits blockout, pleated and custom curtains that are difficult to take down.
No, not when done correctly. Keep the steamer on its gentlest setting, hold it far enough away that the fabric warms without getting wet, and keep it moving. Avoid prolonged steam on velvet and silk, and test a hidden corner of any delicate fabric first.
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